Lombardia 12th - 14th January 2023

So if London isn’t England then Milan isn’t Lombardy - but it’s a good place to start. From Rome, I take the Italo high speed train to Milano (about three hours, I think). It seems odd to think we are hitting speeds of 300kph. I have no real preconceptions of this city. I think the whole point of travel is to discover new things. Of course that doesn't stop images of the Duomo from flashing through my head. However, it's also a chance to catch up with some friends and share the love!

So, the first thing I notice is just how much colder it is. All those years in Saudi Arabia have spoiled me. Arpino feels positively tropical compared to this. My hotel is out at Maciachini which is 4 stops on the yellow line (M3). And that's another noticeable difference, they have an underground system which is clean and efficient. My destination is obviously ....

The Duomo (Well, where else would you start?)

It's beautiful - and huge! I mean really huge. I am not going to bore you with the history of it. If you want to know all the facts and figures about it, click here. For me, it's about the artistry. Everything from the incredible stained glass windows to the intricate details of the carvings in stone is just a labour of love. There's a weird looking statue of Saint Bartholomew who, depending on which story you believe, was skinned alive!

I visited the Duomo and surrounding piazza at different times of the day (and night). It reminds me of Monet's series of paintings of the cathedral at Rouen. It is fascinating to see how the light changes. Close to the cathedral is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele ll. It was the first shopping centre built in this style and was the model for the Galleria in Naples. Of course, unless you have a wheelbarrow full of euros, this place is look but don't touch. It's Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton but it's nice to hobnob with the fashionistas and see immaculately (and expensively dressed men and women. It's another observation - the people around here seem to be taller (remember, I am average height for Arpino).

What to do?

And all that said, there are homeless people on the streets of Milan. I think the most shocking thing I have seen in a while was in Via Torino.  Next to a bus stop, lying on the ground was a man. He had no shoes and his feet were ingrained with dirt. His trousers were rolled up to his knees and he had on only a light jumper and a woollen hat. He was lying there with people walking around him. To all intents and purposes, he could have just been a pile of rags left in the street. I have seen similar things in India and Sri Lanka but it still comes as a shock. I honestly don't understand this. Later, in Turin, I saw quite a few people sleeping on the streets but at least they were under porticoes and had blankets. It's not ideal but this was just unfathomable.

Navigli

One of the things I had promised myself to do was to visit the Pop Air Balloon Museum (more of that later). Our first attempt ended in disaster because the museum was holding a private event. So with my companions, we ended up in the area around Navigli - the canals added to by Leonardo Da Vinci. And a good time was had by all!

Sforzesco Castle and Sempione Park

History buffs click here! Built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan, it was at one time threatened with demolition. It was saved from this fate thanks to the intervention of Luca Beltrami who insisted it be restored - to whom we are grateful. It's an impressive, solid looking building and backs onto Sempione Park. As you exit the castle, you can see the Arch of Peace at the far end of the park. There's also a small lake in the park and also a statue called Mysterious Bathers by Giorgio de Chirico. Weird.

The Pinacoteca di Brera

I think this one is one that slipped through the net. There is just so much anyone can do in a few days in Milan. It's a stylish building but the real gem is what is inside. It houses some really impressive paintings including Caravaggio's Supper at Emmaus. Next time!

The Balloon Museum, Via Tortona

This was one of the things I really wanted to see when I decided I was going to Milan. It has already done some exhibitions in Paris and elsewhere in Europe. And of course, in spite of the images shown on the website, nothing can adequately prepare you for the spectacle. There were 20 something exhibits - some were fairly run of the mill, but others were just mind-blowingly good. As you go in, you enter through a mirrored room which gives the effect of infinite space. Then add Smarties or M&Ms! After you have had your fill, your next encounter is with magical mushrooms. After that, there is a swimming pool filled with plastic balls. It was funny to see grown men and women having such a good time - a reversion to childhood. At the end, there was a short series of presentations about the use of plastics which covered everything from Zeppelins, fake tanks and Yayoi Kusama. Brill.

Final thoughts

It's a chic city and flaunts that thing that Italy does so well, marrying the past with the future. It's ancient and modern, rich and all too obviously poor. It's a place that needs more than just the two and a half days I gave it. All that said, seeing friends was just the best!

All photos from this trip can be found here.