Driving across to Molise from Atina was an unexpected pleasure. The back road winds (a lot) through leafy lanes and tiny villages. Officially, it is supposed to be about an hour and a half from Arpino to my first point of call, Castel San Vincenzo: that it took a little longer is testament to the fact that the beautiful scenery called for photo opportunities.
Castel San Vincenzo
I am looking for two things here: a waterfall and an abbey. I find the abbey first and I am the only visitor there. It's so peaceful and the light is amazing.
The waterfall proves a little trickier and involves stopping and asking several locals who keep telling me it's not far from where I am and I can't miss it. Well, obviously I can because 40 minutes later, I am still trying to find it! Eventually, I see a gate which has Private Property written on it and, intriguingly enough, to the Cascata (waterfall). I venture in and there is a kiosk with a man in it who requires €2 from me to see the waterfall. Privatised Nature! Again, when I trek down to the fall, there's only me to see it. It's not a particularly big waterfall but the river is shrouded with gunnera and other plants, and the sunlight comes through overhanging trees.
Having lost so much time finding the waterfall, two of the towns on my list are abandoned: Pietrabbondante, a well-preserved Roman site, and Agnone which is famous for making bells. Carpinone
Bigger than Castel San Vincenzo, there is another waterfall here. The town also has a very imposing castle. The trek to the waterfall is down a steep (ish) path which has a rope or wire handrail to save you from any unexpected diving adventures. To get a good view of the fall, takes a bit of effort - but it's worth it.
Going back uphill reminded me to sign up for that exercise class I have been promising myself for 20 years or more. It's getting late and there has been a lot of walking particularly of the vertical kind so it's off to the hotel at Castelpetroso.
Castelpetroso
During the time I used to travel down to Campobasso, I would pass Castelpetroso and would see the Basilica Minore dell'Addolorata. It's hard to miss, perched up on the side of the hill as you head on towards Campobasso. It's an incredibly imposing church in weird neo-Gothic style. When you see photos of it on the Internet, it's usually in snow which adds to the effect. It's a place of pilgrimage being the site of a number of apparitions and responsible for some miracles - allegedly. (They seemed to have stopped by the 1970s). Anyway, the building is impressive though the inside of the church, less so.
My hotel was amazing: La Fonte dell'Astore was comfortable, amazing value and included breakfast with a wonderful crostata di amarena. It's also a short walk from there to the Sanctuary.
Campobasso
After a healthy breakfast, it's off to Campobasso to meet up with one of my best friends who lives there and who, for the next couple of days, will be my guide!
We meet up at Monforte Castle which overlooks the town. It's another clear, hot day with blue sky dotted with a few clouds.
View from Monforte Castle, Campobasso.
Civitacampomarano
After booking into La Luna nel Pozzo B&B, we head for the coast. Before we get there, Annarita, my guide takes me to Civitacampomarano. It's tiny! Less than 500 people live here and there are a lot of abandoned properties. However, the highlights of this place are the many mural which people have put on their houses.
Murals at Civitacampomarano
Termoli
After wandering through the virtually deserted streets of the town, we head for Termoli and the sea. Even though it's a destination much admired by Italians and tourists alike, it wasn't particularly crowded. One of the main attractions here is the
trabocco which is a sort of mechanised fishing hut. I get to paddle in the sea (che gioia!) and it's just great to lie on the beach and soak up the sun and ambience.
The day ends in complete contrast with dinner at a biker's pub on the edge of Campobasso. Officina 921 is great. It's like some hidden hole in the wall for biker nuts. Great range of beer and a good atmosphere playing When A Man Loves a Woman by Percy Sledge while enjoying a veggie burger.
The next day we head for Sepino.
Sepino
More accurately,
Saepinum was a Samnite town which was captured by the Romans and added to from 2BCE. It's a little Pompei - though infinitely more walkable It has an amphitheatre, the remains of a terme and fora. There was a small group of tourists (from Naples I am informed) visiting but apart from them, it was pretty much deserted.
Le Coccole, Guardiaregia
It's time to say goodbye to Molise. We have lunch at an agriturismo at Guardiaregia, high in the mountains.
The food is simple: some Caciocavallo cheese which is typical of Molise, some bruschette, some grilled vegetables. Main course is pasta with asparagus and we go mad and have desserts too.
And in the end ....
Molise is so green and reminiscent of my childhood with long drives through leafy country lanes along winding roads. It is spectacular with forests climbing up the sides of mountains, lakes that look like they have been photoshopped. In spite of the amount of driving, I have come away from this trip with a sense of peace and contentment. Priceless!
NOTE: I have only included a selection of photos because I took so many. If you would like to see more of some of the places I visited, please click on the link below or paste it into your browser:
No comments:
Post a Comment