A quick dash in Toscana

Ostensibly, we are in Toscana for a couple of days to celebrate the achievement of my youngest son in not only passing his degree but doing so with the highest possible grade - "con lode". I have only admiration and a sense of pride in his achievements. Love Dad.

Pisa

I have spent a few days in Pisa before and it's a nice town. It's more or less a walkable city and there is always something to see if you are prepared to wander off the tourist path. We are camped (literally) about 20 minutes away from the centre in a camping village - all I can say is that these people have never camped! There is way too much luxury.

We spend the evening in Le Scuderie. Fortunately, we get in early because by the time we leave this pizzeria, it's heaving with students who have finished their academic year and are celebrating it with pizza sold by the metre! We stuff our faces and finish with cheesecake (frutti di bosco). Wandering at night avoids most of the tourists and gives up some interesting photos. 

We spent some time discussing the possibility of going to the Natural History Museum at La Certosa, Calci. In the end, it is left as a free day and so I decide to take the 10 minute trip to Viareggio to see a friend - the Doc.

Viareggio

Viareggio is a seaside resort ten minutes by train from Pisa. It has a slightly Edwardian air to it - there are still some buildings in what the Italians call the Liberty Style. The city was reconstructed by the Fascists and again after the city was bombed heavily during the Second World War. The Doc is my guide and we wander along the Molo which extends for some 6km. I introduce her to that very British of leisure pursuits of "paddling". "to dabble, wade in water," origins in 1520s. There is a beautiful wide promenade lined with a mix of chic shops and gelaterie and bars. Along the promenade there are constant reminders of what Viareggio is famous for: the annual Carnival held (in 2023) in February. there are also some beautiful bronze statues of dancers and musicians (they are the work of Anna Chromý). there is also a statue dedicated to the Carnival mascot: the Burlamacco.

The Budino di Mick

We end up at Galliano's bar. It's a typically chic seaside bar with outside seating (much needed after a lengthy passeggiata). It's also famous for the budino (like a rice cake with orange). After a concert in Lucca, Mick had one of the bar's famous desserts and then ordered a 100 of them! Anyway, it was very nice. 

It was great to see Viareggio but even better to see the Doc who is a great guide.

Saturday, we go to the award ceremony for number 2. So proud of him (have I said that already?). We then head for home after a hectic couple of days in Toscana. There are still other places to explore in this region but that's for another time.

Full photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xFszaXxQ539GE3uT9

Emilia-Romagna: Bologna and environs

It's a day of catch ups. I meet up with cousin Kim (and his wife, Susan) in Piazza Nettuno. We struggle to remember when we last saw each other. The bare minimum is at least, 25 years ago but it's quite possibly more. Soon after meeting them, I catch up with a friend from my days as a Healthy Schools Award coordinator: the ever lovely Dali and the equally lovely John. I think I first met Dali in the mid- nineties but the last time I saw her was 2012/13 when I was working in a summer school in Chalfont St Giles.


We sit and drink short coffees in a long way. Kim, who has been in Bologna for some time now (in his pursuit of Italian citizenship, is our tour guide and shows us interesting things about the genitalia on the statue of Neptune.

It's a grey day with a fine drizzle dampening the tour but not the spirits. We have lunch at the Mercato di Mezzo which is a kind of food court. And I have my first encounter with a real Bolognese piadina (filled with rocket, mozzarella and tomato). And beer! That's at least one of the best things about not driving!

We sort of see the seven church complex and one of the few remaining canals in the city. Of course we see the Due Torri. One of them is called Il Torre degli Asinelli and the one next to it, isn't. :-)

The towers lean with one of them 7m off the perpendicular! It's probably best not to tell them about Pisa.

For dinner and end up at Ca' Pelletti in Via Zamboni. I had cappelletti with butter and Parmesan and some wine. To finish the day, we find a bar near the Palazzo della Mercanzia and have a coffee (well, John and I did, the others had decaf which, as we know, is just coloured water). Tomorrow, Ferrara!

Ferrara and Bronwyn, the criminal dog

We take the slow train to Ferrara, about an hour. Once there, we meet up with a friend of mine from Saudi. We have a little potter around before lunch at Locanda 22, a small restaurant with outdoor seating which gives a great view of Ferrara Castle.




Lunch is a local speciality, cappellacci - a sort of ravioli with pumpkin in it. I have a skirmish with the waiter who insists that cappelletti only have meat in them. I tell him I ate ricotta and spinach cappelletti (at a restaurant called Ca' Pelletti) the previous night. We have a gastronomic standoff.


To burn off some of the calories, we embark on a long ramble around the city. Taking the back streets we wander through the old Jewish quarter and eventually, after a leisurely coffee, end up back at the main square. Inside the castle there is an incredible exhibition of sculptures by two artists, Sara Bolzani and Nicola Zamboni. They depict the story of Orlando Furioso, a 16th century fable written by Ludovico Ariosto for his patrons, the Este family (who also gave their name to the castle). They are amazing pieces of art.

The Criminal Dog

Bronwyn, the criminal

The dog. Dali and John are accompanied by their faithful hound, Bronwyn. Coming to Ferrara was absolutely no problem. We simply bought a ticket for all four of us and got on the train. Coming back was an edgy ride because the clerk at the station (the ticket machine wasn't working) informed us she wouldn't issue a ticket for the dog if we were unable to show a dog passport. Of course there is no guidance on this anywhere! You are just supposed to know. All the documentation for said pooch lies back in Bologna. the clerk is unyielding and without documentation there is the possibility of a fine - so we endure a nervy 30 minute ride back to Bologna. I am now consorting with criminals! And a criminal dog at that!

Rocchetta Mattei - or not! Lakes - or not!

I have no idea why I didn't check the opening times but when we arrived, it was closed. It doesn't open except on weekends. Such a stupid thing to do and I am angry with myself. However, we make the best of our adventure and head out to a 14th century village called La Scola. It's population is 25 but it's been restored and is a pretty diversion.

Rocchetta Mattei - the castle we didn't visit!

Lunch is in a local trattoria and all three of us have ravioli with ricotta and spinach with butter and sage. It's simple but so well done and quite possibly the nicest meal we have had here since we came.

La Scola

Suitably sated, we head off to a non-lake. My friend insists there's no lake on her map (despite the road signs suggesting there is a large body of water somewhere nearby).

We eventually arrive at a very substantial lake, Lake Suviana. It's held back by a dam constructed in the 1930s and fed by another lake, Lake Brasimone which is higher up in the hills.

The countryside makes for pleasant if somewhat wriggly driving (for John) and we get back to Bologna around 5pm.

After a short rest, we walk into town and eat at the Osteria dell'Orsa where we had intended to eat the previous night but weren't prepared for the long queues. No queues tonight though and we eat heartily.

I speak to the man at the door - in Italian and he answers in English. I ask how he knew I was English. His reply was, your accent but your Italian is very good. Annoying!

We wander into town for an ice cream and later a coffee. In the end, it was just nice to spend some time with friends. 20 years from now, assuming we are all still alive and able to recall the history of our lives, we will look back and say…. Do you remember the time we didn't go to Rocchetta Mattei? :-)

Last day. We meet up in the main piazza and are eventually joined by Kim and Susan. We say goodbye to Dali and John and have lunch together before I walk down to the station with Kim. It's been a good holiday.

Portico

As usual, I am providing a link to the album with all the photos I took while travelling around Bologna. Thanks to Team Sidonio who made the trip so memorable.


Link to photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMQJ53H3gUvDFEAdA